Edinburgh
It sounds a little bit strange describing any destination in Edinburgh as being a 'hidden attraction', but many tourists seem to hit the big ticket items, while not really exploring the city itself. Using Tripadvisor and other big name online guides has advantages, but experience teaches that adventurous older tourists may want to avoid the big crowds some of the time, and the hidden gems and quiet spots provide a huge relief from the bustle of big name attractions. Going to most cities gives you the opportunity to use your sense of discovery so you might stumble across fantastic experiences.
The Castle is the biggest attraction, drawing in huge crowds, but the 'Waters of Leith' and places like it seem to get passed by, although they have every bit as much appeal to the inquisitive and active traveller. I spent two weeks this summer exploring the backwaters of Edinburgh, and found much to please the eye and mind. Tip: one of the best ways to discover the best of Edinburgh is to talk with the locals, (they are very chatty) whether it is on a street corner or in a pub. You might start talking about one thing, then finding out about the undiscovered city. Here are a few ideas about travelling and staying in Edinburgh.
Accommodations
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| SYHA Edinburgh Central |
Edinburgh is a very expensive city to stay in, year round. My first choice for accommodations has always been the SYHA hostel in central Edinburgh which is within five minutes walk of Princes Street and ten minutes from Old Town. This accommodation has small dorm rooms, private rooms and prices which are vastly below the cost of nearby hotels. It is very modern, has a restaurant and lounge, a cafeteria as well as a well stocked self-catering kitchen, a bar and great security. The rooms are very comfortable and clean. You also will meet many travellers of all ages. If you are not 'crazy', then cost wise, this is the best accommodation in Edinburgh. The only down side is that there is no parking. There are other hostels in the center, but they tend to be less comfortable and are mainly geared to backpackers. My other choice for accommodation (this year) was a pet sitting gig, which lasted for two weeks and was totally free. Located in Corstorphine, a lovely suburb, it was a twenty minute bus ride from the city center. Bus passes are inexpensive and well worth the price. Tip: In Edinburgh, the local bus system is so good that having a car is pointless and expensive. Bus drivers are very helpful and will give you directions. There is also a free transit map provided by Lothian buses, and they also have a free downloadable app that gives bus routes and times. While you are in Edinburgh, day trips are easy and fantastic using the intercity bus system. Whatever you do, do not miss a half day trip to the Kelpies.
Weather
Scotland, as you will appreciate, is billed as rainy. Edinburgh is no exception, although while visiting you might be lucky and hardly get any rain at all. Fortunately, if it does rain, there are lots of things to do.
Edinburgh Castle
This is the big tourist attraction that all visitors want to go to. It can be booked online, or you can line up for tickets. Either way, there is a line up to pass through the gates. Give yourself about two hours to see the castle, It is worth the visit, however, if you want a better experience in castles, get to the Edinburgh Bus Station close to Princes street, and get on a bus for Stirling Castle which is west of Edinburgh in the lovely provincial town of Stirling. Whereas Edinburgh Castle has barracks, gaols, military museums, and the Scottish Crown Jewels (Scotland's Honours), it also has huge lineups for everything. Stirling has regal halls, kings and queens' bedrooms and a lot more history, with a lot fewer tourists. It also costs less to get in. Tip: Both Edinburgh and Stirling offer concession prices for seniors. 
The Festival
In August, Edinburgh has the Edinburgh International Festival, the biggest one in the world. Absolutely fantastic, with thousands of performers, it is well worth the visit, but book very, very early, because there is no room in the city to accommodate all of the festival goers.
Old Town
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| Edinburgh Old Town |
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| Early evening on the Royal Mile |
They do look like alleyways, but they lead into the heart of Old Town and all sorts of hidden restaurants, pubs, shops, museums and curiosities of architecture.
You will be accosted numerous times by people selling things. The usual tourist stuff, and tours promoters, and there are also some pretty amazing street performers to keep things entertaining.
However, the buildings are old and interesting, the area has lots of history and stories about internationally famous characters and writers and it is one of those places you may spend several days getting to the heart of.
The Literary Pub Tour
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| The Tour starts in the Grassmarket |
I can't say I am much for tours, but this one was good. In many cities I have travelled, there have been options between fixed price walking tours and the free ones. I have done both, but generally have found the free ones to have been as good or better. In Edinburgh, I went on the Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour (fixed price). Two 'actor' guides argue while walking you through locales which are associated with Scotland's most famous historical writers, Sir Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson, describing where they hung out and the antics they got up to. On a scale of 1 to 10, this tour was around a 7. Tip: wear good walking shoes, and expect the tour to include a couple of breaks in restaurants and bars. They actually end up in a bar.
Free Old Town Tours
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| On the free tour in Old Town |
Depending upon who guides you, the places you visit and the historical information you get can vary. One year I went, the tour extended geographically beyond the best of Old Town, while this year it was rather more limited. The quality varies, but then again, because the tour guides work on gratuities, you get to choose how much you pay at the end. I have taken Sandeman tours in Edinburgh, New Orleans and Paris, and they are usually good.
Waters of Leith
This urban hike is one of Edinburgh's hidden gems, taking you from the countryside to the heart of the city and beyond, and is a total break from tourism. There are numerous entryways to the path along its route, giving you the opportunity to do side trips all the way if you so choose, or you could simply start from one od these entry ways within the city. However, for much of its length, the path along the river is a beautiful and restful walk among forest and old buildings and scenery that will make you forget you are in the heart of Scotland's capital.
Greyfriars Church Yard and the J.K. Rowlings connection
What's not to like? A graveyard with bars on some of the sites to prevent grave robbing (Burke and Hare frequented this place) , tombs and gravesites for many of Scotland's most famous people, and the inspiration for many of the characters that appeared in the Harry Potter series. In spite of this, the graveyard is not a busy place, and you can feel removed from the hustle and bustle of the city. Just a few minutes away from the Royal Mile and Old Town, this is a very special place.
The Greyfriars Kirkyard has a long and interesting history to it, involving Covenanters, body snatchers, ghosts and the story of Greyfriars Bobby. Before you visit, make sure you check out this history, or go on one of the tours that walk you through it.
Arthur's Seat
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| close to the top |
The best hike in the heart of the city, and the best views for miles. Arthur's Seat is a large hill which hangs over the south east side of the city and takes an hour to climb up. It is a strenuous hike, and can be even more strenuous is you choose the wrong path up it. Good hiking shoes will work well for this, take some water with you, and be aware that it could rain at any time.
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| A view over the city |
A lot of people, locals included do this hike, because it takes you 'out of the city' without ever leaving it. If you want to cheat a bit, there is a road that goes around the seat, Queen's Drive, which you can take, then follow parking signs. But the real fun is to take your time walking the whole way up from the parking lot next to Holyrood Palace at the bottom of the Royal Mile.
Calton Hill
A slightly less breathtaking walk looking over the city is the one you take into Calton Hill Park - a few short minutes from Princes Street. Calton Hill has a number of monuments and places of historical interest at the top, and it provides a nice view of the city. There are numerous paths to the top.
The People's Story Museum
Another hidden gem, The People's Story Museum (built in 1591) tells, through displays and models, about the lives of ordinary people living in Edinburgh from the 1800's onward. Call it a labour museum. If you want to learn about the lives of the city's rich and famous, then this is not for you. So many museums neglect this side of history, that this one stands out as a great example of life in bygone days. Another thing, like many other Edinburgh museums, this has free admission.Edinburgh Writers' Museum
The Edinburgh Writer's Museum celebrates the life and times of three of Edinburgh's most famous writers, Robert Louis Stevenson and Sir Walter Scott. If you want to know how these writers lived, see samples of their work and some of their possessions, then this old museum is a great visit for about an hour. Conveniently, it is located off the Royal Mile in Old town by walking through Lady Stairs Close (a close is a short, narrow passageway) Other Places of Note in Edinburgh
The Grassmarket
St Giles Cathedral
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| The Debating Chamber |
Many visitors take a day or two out of the city to see the rest of the country. Scotland is not a large country, very small in fact, and there are numerous day trips on buses which take you to the Highlands, Fife and St Andrews, Glasgow and the border country. While these trips are easy to take, visitors will not get as deep an experience as what they would if they rented a car and drove to those places themselves. Whatever you do, do not miss a trip by bus or car to the Kelpies near Falkirk.
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